Fall in the Smokies

The fall colors in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park seemed to peak a little late this year. Maybe it was caused by the wet spring and summer. Maybe it was caused by the idiotic shutdown of the National Parks due to our inept government. Who knows?

We were starting to wonder if we would get good colors. All of a sudden from October 29 to 31 the leaves became vivid and bright. Around the first of November a relatively strong storm swept through the mountains bringing high winds and most of the color was gone. If you blinked, you missed it. Lucky for me I was in the Smokies during that whole period and had a camera.

Hatcher Mountain - Wears Valley, TN

 

Our cabin sits on a ridge atop Hatcher Mountain above Wears Valley, TN. It’s only six miles from the National Park and about the same altitude as Cades Cove. The ridge across from us looked like a patchwork quilt.

 

Hatcher Mountain - Wears Valley, TN

 

What a place to just relax and soak in the beauty of nature. Don’t you really want to sit in one of those rocking chairs?

 

 

Hatcher Mountain - Wears Valley, TN

 

The little cabin and detention pond near the entrance to our subdivision was particularly colorful.

 

 

 

Little River - Great Smoky Mountains NP

 

A long lost friend from high school, David Wallace, his wife, Bonnie, and dog, Rhys, paid us a delightful visit. This is David contemplating the possibility of human flight.

 

 

Little River - Great Smoky Mountains NP

 

Little River. Just off Lamar Alexander Parkway near the Townsend entrance to the park.

 

 

 

Little River - Great Smoky Mountains NP

 

Some reflections near the same location as above.

 

 

 

Rich Mountain - Great Smoky Mountains NP

 

David and I decided to drive up Rich Mountain Road from Cades Cove to view the valley from above.

 

 

 

Cades Cove - Great Smoky Mountains NP

 

This is the old Methodist Church in Cades Cove as seen from partway up Rich Mountain.

 

 

 

Rich Mountain - Great Smoky Mountains NP

 

We ended up parking the car at a pulloff and hiking up the Rich Mountain Loop Trail. The weather was perfect and the scenery was spectacular. Sometimes you just have to get out and put your feet on the ground to absorb the colors, smells and feel of fall.

 

Man, what a beautiful fall and great time in our new cabin. It’s good to be alive!

Grand Teton Landscape

Grand Teton National Park was the final destination on our epic road trip this year. It was a fitting grand finale. In all of the places we visited our primary focus was on seeing the animals but, the scenery simply cannot be ignored.

Grand Teton NP - WY

 

During our week of September 22-29, the aspens were turning a vivid gold. The towering Grand Teton Mountain provides a commanding background. This image was shot near the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center at Moose Junction.

 

Grand Teton NP - WY

 

Since we were travelling south into the Tetons from Yellowstone my first real view of the mountain range was at the Coulter Bay Visitor Center. Mount Moran, center, rises 12,605 feet above sea level and is home to several glaciers as you can see here.

 

Grand Teton NP - WY

 

The weather during our week was constantly changing. Most mornings were too overcast to get great sunrise shots but, the heavy clouds provided some drama nonetheless.

This was shot near the Cunningham Cabin Historic Site.

 

Grand Teton NP - WY

 

We got a couple of days of light snow as seen here near the old Cattleman’s Bridge site.

 

 

 

Grand Teton NP - WY

 

Other days were warm shirtsleeve weather like this shot around the corner at Oxbow Bend. I tried on a couple of occasions to get sunrise pictures here but, no luck. The clouds persisted in chopping off the top of Mount Moran.

 

Grand Teton NP - WY

 

No visit to the Tetons is complete without taking a drive down Antelope Flats Road and Mormon Row to see the old barns there. The peak of Grand Teton Mountain is seen here just left of the roof.

 

Grand Teton NP - WY

 

Another old barn.

This time Grand Teton is in the far right of the frame.

 

 

Grand Teton NP - WY

 

One of the snowy days we drove to the top of Signal Mountain. That’s Jackson Lake at the foot of the mountains. It’s by far the largest lake in the park and covers over 25,500 acres.

 

 

Grand Teton NP - WY

 

 

Another view from Signal Mountain looking northwest toward Jackson Lake.

 

 

 

 

Grand Teton NP - WY

 

This was also shot from Signal Mountain but, it’s an easterly view looking toward Moran Junction.

 

 

 

Grand Teton NP - WY

 

We had been shooting Moose near Gros Ventre campground and decided to drive beyond Kelly,WY and further out Gros Ventre Road.

 

 

Grand Teton NP - WY

 

It was a very windy day but, we found several beautiful spots along the Gros Ventre River where a hole in the clouds would open up and highlight the yellow aspens for a moment.

 

 

Grand Teton NP - WY

 

Lower Slide Lake is not actually in Grand Tetons NP but, it’s beautiful enough to be a park. Here again the light would come and go as holes in the heavy sky moved by.

 

 

Frank Severance - Grand Teton NP - WY

I’ll always cherish my trip this year to the Badlands, Mount Rushmore, Needles Highway, Custer State Park, Devils Tower, Yellowstone and the Tetons. It truly was a trip of a lifetime and would not have been possible without the help of several family members. I especially want to thank my brother-in-law, Frank Severence. He provided his Toyota Sequoia and did most of the driving. Here he’s telling a Teton Park Ranger which way to go.

Barbara Severance - Grand Teton NP - WY

 

Another heartfelt thank you must go to my sister-in-law, Barbara Severance. She provided a nice calming influence between the two alpha males in the car for those 7,000 miles. She’s also one of the best critter spotters and creative photographers around.

 

Grand Teton NP - WY

 

Our last morning in the Tetons was spent looking for Elk near Windy Point. I took a final gaze up at the beautiful mountains and captured this image as we prepared to head back east to Hampton, VA.

 

 

It was a long but fantastic trip. We saw so many wondrous sights that it’s difficult to remember them all. Good thing I took a camera and have thousands of images. I can relive the journey whenever I want to.

Grand Teton Animals

We departed Yellowstone National Park on September 22nd and headed south for our week in Grand Teton National Park. Needless to say, we were looking forward to overloading our senses with glorious scenery and captivating wildlife. Spoiler alert – we were NOT disappointed!

Our two bedroom condo in the Aspens development was a nice upgrade from the Dunraven Lodge back in Yellowstone. It was about half the cost and we had a full kitchen so we could cook and save on food as well. After spending nearly two weeks on the road we made good use of the clothes washer and dryer also in the unit. Several nights were cool enough to enjoy the relaxing wood-burning fireplace.

Moose - Grand Teton NP

The Aspens are located on Moose Wilson Road. This road actually enters the park just 5.5 miles north of us. Our building was in the rear of the development and backed up to some woods and the mountains. One day I was standing on our back deck and was amazed to see this moose cow grazing just below me. I grabbed my camera and rushed downstairs to check her out. While there I met one of the full-time residents who explained that the cow and a bull had been living in that area for some time and had some offspring. We never saw the bull or the babies but, it was really cool to see moose right behind our condo. With a name like “Moose Wilson Road” I guess it makes sense.

Moose - Grand Teton NPA few miles up this same road but, inside the park we saw more moose. This big boy had his eye on a female grazing across the water. We arrived just in time to watch him cross the little tributary of the Snake River in hot pursuit.

Moose paparazzi - Grand Teton NP

 

 

We weren’t exactly alone out there gawking at the moose. Photographers with big glass seemed to sprout up like toadstools whenever an animal was spotted. I couldn’t resist standing back for a minute and just watching the people watching the animals. There’s around $200k of camera gear perched there. Moose - Grand Teton NP

 

On a different day but in this same area we saw what we thought was a dead cow and baby. They were completely motionless and sprawled out on the grass. After quite some time there was movement so we realized they were simply snoozing. We waited for them to get up and walk around but, they were too comfy. We had to move on.

Moose - Grand Teton NP

 

We heard several reports from other photographers that moose were being seen on a regular basis in the early morning hours at the Gros Ventre campground. A couple of mornings we trekked over there but, only saw this cow and some fleeting glimpses of a bull in the distance. We heard the old story: “You should have been here yesterday, the biggest bull we’ve ever seen was just five feet away”. Yeah, and the fish were jumping in the boat.

Black Bear - Grand Teton NP

 

The Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve is also located on Moose Wilson Road. Two or three black bears were being spotted there almost daily feeding on the huckleberries. I can’t resist an opportunity to photograph a bear.

Cinnamon Black Bear - Grand Teton NP

 

 

This is the first time I’d ever seen a “Cinnamon Bear”. It’s actually a subspecies of Black Bear and quite common in the western US. This one was in the same area as the black bear shown above and didn’t seem to mind the company. The only difference between them is the color of their fur.

 

 

Elk - Grand Teton NP

 

For over 100 years the National Elk Refuge near Jackson Hole, WY has been home to an estimated 11,000 elk. We expected to see lots of elk but, we really didn’t. The refuge covers 25,000 acres so it’s vast. Our problem was twofold…we were too early for the elk to be coming down from higher elevations and we didn’t know exactly where to find them. Fortunately, on our next to last day we got a tip about the Windy Point Turnout just northwest of Moose Junction. We spent the early morning of our last day observing several elk there and got to hear the echo of their bugle bouncing off the mountains. Nothing else sounds like that.

One day my sister-in-law, Barb, and I were exploring some back roads south of Moran Junction. We stumbled on Wolff Ranch Road. There were a couple of wildlife tour vans making their way ahead of us so we followed along. In some spots the dirt and gravel road was questionable even though we had 4-wheel drive. We had to ford 3 creeks that were over the running boards but, if those vans ahead could make it then, so could we.

Pronghorn - Grand Teton NP

 

In the first field out there we discovered a nice little herd of Pronghorn. As I mentioned in my earlier blogs, these critters were one of the highlights of the trip for me. They are so interesting to observe and I love their markings.

 

Pronghorn - Grand Teton NP

 

The males have beautiful black “horns” and a big black patch on their neck. The display of that black patch is what gets the females hot.

They can run really really fast but, they can’t jump like a deer. They also have a flat motion. Not bouncy like a deer. The one shown here is moving at a medium pace with all four hooves off the ground. He’s nowhere near top speed. No predator can keep up with these guys.

Pronghorn - Grand Teton NP

 

It’s time for breakfast!

This juvenile is almost the size of mom and has to get on its knees to eat.

 

 

Pronghorn - Grand Teton NP

 

How can you not fall in love with these little critters? The babies are just too cute.

 

 

 

Bison - Grand Teton NP

 

Further down the same road we ran into a huge herd of Bison. At one point our car was surrounded and we couldn’t move. They were drinking water from the mud puddles in the road and we couldn’t move forward or back. They weren’t threatening us but, they weren’t moving either.

Bison - Grand Teton NP

 

They love to rub on the base of trees. You can always tell if bison are in the area because the bark is rubbed off nearly all the trees.

 

Bison - Grand Teton NP

 

 

We got a little dusting of snow and it really made them stand out.

 

 

Bison - Grand Teton NP

 

 

I ended up getting some of my best Bison images out there. So many subjects and situations to choose from. All it took was some imagination to get the shots I wanted.

 

 

 

 

We didn’t have quite as good of weather in the Tetons as we did in Yellowstone so that impacted our light and shooting somewhat. We also tried not to go from dawn til dusk every single day if the conditions were bad. Regardless, we got to see lots of animals and beautiful scenery. It was splendid. My next and final blog post will hopefully show some of that scenery. Stay tuned…